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Pot Kiln, Berkshire

I visited this last night with a small party. The serice was assiduous if intermittent. Our waiter answered all requests with the remark 'No problem'. When we decided to eschew the hors d'oeuvres a waitresss immediately circled the table and noisily removed the unwanted cutlery.

I ordered 'garlic free-range chicken' from a menu rich in game but totally devoid of beef. While waiting our ladies had quite a nice white wine, while we sampled to local beer: very hoppy and quite weak. It was as well it was strongly flavoured because when two quite large pieces of white substance were put on my plate they proved to be completely without flavour. If these were produced by 'The Television Chef' his taste buds were not just turned to minimum. They were disconnected. And my green beans were so rubbery that they defied all attempts to divide them using the cutlery supplied. Quite good coffee was served in pottery tea-cups, with my brandy in a tumbler.

Our meal cost about £28 per head, including drinks and 10% service charge. We escaped the hors d'oeuvres and desserts. Truly a night to remember. CW

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