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Seamart, Cnr Packenham St and Market Place Downtown, Auckland City New Zealand


Cnr Packenham St and Market Place Downtown, Auckland City New Zealand

This barn like building - called Seamart Trio - is a restaurant, a bar and bistro and a fish wholesalers. It's cavernous inside, with a vast woodfired oven along half of one wall. Although it's the size of Quaglinos and could easily seat 200 people, there were very few other customers. The waitress was a tall, slim, pretty thing, who seemed overawed by the size of the place. Each time she meandered up to us, she had to decide from which side to approach our table. Each time she made a different decision, changing her mind several times on the way. Agonising for all concerned, really. But the food was wonderful: I started with Greek salad, which was fresh and nicer than most of those I've ever had in Greece, L had a huge bowl of steamed New Zealand green lipped mussels. Then I had woodfired flounder stuffed with aubergines and lentils; L had a great mound of fish and chips: tarakihi, calamari and prawns, all fried perfectly in batter. The first two courses impressed us so much we decided to give the desserts a go, but after she'd brought us the dessert menu, she wove uncertainly away and started clearing a table way in the distance and well out of earshot. By the time she returned, the moment had passed and we asked for the bill. With a glass of local beer each, this came to under $80 - about 13 quid each. Truly fabulous food, idiosyncratic surroundings, sweet, slow and weird service, but so what? Recommended. DM 2001

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