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The Dorset Arms
Withyham, Hartfield, East Sussex TN7 4BD Tel: 01892 770278
The approach to the Dorset Arms in Withyam, is grand – a green island of grass with plenty of parking and foliage obviously struggled with on one side to create a clearing. Inside is a restaurant area and a bar, neither particularly striking and certainly not a cuddle-up winter pubs in front of a log fire (although there was one, unlit). The food and drink, however is a different story. A badly-scrawled blackboard is the order of the day and some of England's finest traditional dishes are on offer here. Salmon fishcakes were huge slabs of obviously hand constructed (I hate to say hand-made because it doesn't really mean that anymore) and tasty fish patties with the accent strongly on the fish content. Pink and luscious and crispy on the outside. Perfect. Q's liver and bacon was the best she could remember tasting, both plates too huge to offer anything but a cursory look at the dessert list. A tiny grumble – with food this good, is it really necessary to have oven-made chips?? Service was brisk, friendly and efficient – no need to leave a card behind the bar here, and as lunchtime advanced, tables quickly filled up.

The Dorset Arms is an absolute triumph – it may not be the prettiest pub inside but this one really is well worth the visit. M

££

2004

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