To be honest I've been getting a bit jaded eating in Kent and Sussex country pubs recently. Either you have a Bottle House with an over ambitious menu serving hundreds and hundreds of people, or you have a Huntsman with gastro pub language serving around a dozen diners with eclectic (some might say stupid) combinations of food from a chalk blackboard. I'm more than happy to report that my faith in the country pub has returned following a visit to the George Inn in Frant, East Sussex.

Nestled amongst cottages in probably the prettiest village "High Street" in the South, the George is a sprawling maze of rooms - one non smoking, others very "loungey", others still more heavily laden with tables. There's a vast safe garden out the back and children are treated with decency - there's no need to put a "children admitted" sign here, because the whole feel of the place is so positive and friendly that it would seem irrelevant. Food is a treat, but watch out because there are three menus - one for "bar food", one for "sandwiches" and one containing everything else. My char-grilled sirloin steak was just that - dark and unyielding on the outside but with a soft, juicy blood-red middle, and came stacked on top of a sea of cherry toms and button onions, lashed with a balsamic vinegarey sauce. Q's Steak and Guinness pudding was majestic - an Ayers Rock of pud, suet sweet and soft with a moat of Guinness. A third plate arrived with lightly sauted veg of the day, proper chips and tender-to-the-touch new pots. We couldn't move after that and despite drooling over the dessert choices, heaved off to the car.

A friendly welcome, no fuss service and delicious well cooked and presented food - the George is an absolute joy. M