From inauspicious beginnings in the small shack that is now Kitsu, to lodging as the in-house restaurateurs at the Mount Edgcumbe, to a perhaps final destination in the lavish high ceilinged rooms next to the Vale Royal Hotel, the restaurant that was New Concept has now metamorphosised into the Indo-China Restaurant.

Its not the easiest place to find and does not benefit from any passing trade, but once you work out where it is, both the greeting and the internal design of the place is warm, welcoming and refreshing.

A quick stop-over lunch was the order of the day and Q and I were given large padded menus with a vast array of Thai and Malaysian specialities. There was also a lunch menu which we went for (”It’s still being printed, so I’ll have to tell you it”) of a platter of starters including sesame prawn toast, ribs, seaweed, satay and spring rolls for two with a choice of any main course dish + noodles or rice for £12. Starters were relatively tasty and hot, and our main course choices of beef and potato Malaccan curry with roti, and chicken hot and sour with rice were hot, spicy and fiery by turns. A bland, undressed and slightly knackered salad accompanied and all in all the food was okay rather than fantastic. Prices slightly on the high side, portions on the small side. M