(1) Tootsies in T Wells - urgh. We knew the waiter (who was excellent and very attentive), but who unfortunately was at the end of his shift - we arrived at 4.30pm - 4 adults, 2 young kids, but did not leave until 7pm - granted we had 3 courses but still, the service was diabolical which meant that we had no choice but to sit and wait, and wait and wait. For a while we were the only customers in the place - a male and female manager swanned around the restaurant but obviously paid little attention to what was going on. It was my sons 2nd birthday which we relayed to the waiter - we got two balloons - whooppee! Another party came in later on, and said the same thing - they got balloons, sparkling deserts, singing waiter etc - am I being unreasonable? We were so hacked off by the end that we just wanted to get out.

The worst thing was the food - starter was ok, although very small. The main course arrived about an hour later (remember there was hardly anyone there), and most of the food was cold. Obviously by this time we were thinking of getting the kids home before midnight so no time to complain. For dessert I chose the fruit fondue with hot chocolate sauce -mmm - very tasty, although guess what - the hot sauce was not - it was cold. I can only assume that each meal had been waiting for service for at least 15 minutes - the chips were not even luke warm. We were VERY disappointed - it ruined what should have been a very special day. There should be a note on the door advising people not to go in unless it is core hours. I appreciate we went in at an irregular time, but if a service is offered, then you expect something nearing decency. I genuinely believe McDonalds would have been better - hotter, quicker, cheaper. If they sold alcohol I would have gone there. D S Gruntled

(2)Another food chain, another set of cut corners.

The late Pete McCarthy writes in his book, “The Road to McCarthy” that Manhattan is the opposite of the average British High Street in that its food shops and restaurants are largely independent, family-run places that may or may not have been there for a number of years. The average British High Street now probably comprises a Pizza Express, Pizza Hut, Macdonalds, Burger King, Starbucks and, increasingly Prezzo, Wagamama, Cosmobar, etc, etc. Now I don’t want you calling me a Slow Food maniac, because we’ve all fallen into one of these places and enjoyed an occasional meal, almost despite ourselves but the desperate danger is that there are fewer and fewer companies and therefore, individuals, making decisions about our leisure eating. Whether or not you are happy with the homogenisation of our eating experiences, you can’t help but feel that there is a growing poverty of individuality and spirituality around. I’ll cut to the chase, if you eat in a place like Tootsies you are signing up to a place devoid of its own individual character, in a place where cooking is to a set of rules, where the chef has as much influence over the composition and presentation of food as a school dinner lady.

Tootsies proudly boast that their burgers are “the best burger you’ve ever eaten”, which is a pretty bold and frankly untruthful little lie.

These burgers are better burgers than Tootsies:

The Spy award winner at Sticky Fingers, London
Ed’s Easy Diner, branches everywhere
The burger I had in the London Spa, London, which only cost £2.50
The burger I had at the Wells Diggers Arms, West Sussex
The one I had at the place near Penshurst even although it was a bit small
The famed one at the Landor Pub in Clapham, London
The one at Jamie Oliver’s Dads place in Essex
The one I had deep fried in batter near Kirriemuir in Angus, Scotland
The one I made the other night using Scottish beef from McCallums with chillies
The one I took a mortgage out on at TGIFridays
The curried lamb burger I had once after midnight on the Perth Road, Dundee
and even forchrissakes, the Wendyburger I had which was square near Paddington about fifteen years ago

Urban Dining who own the chain, plan to open another 70-odd of these places, probably somewhere near you. Don’t say you haven’t been warned. M