Battling against the increasing poncification of Exmouth Market, Clarke's Pie and Mash shop is a genuine throwback to the old days.

If you can manage to get the attention of one of the two ladies serving, pies come as "small" or "large" although you can barely tell the difference and your two little mounds of fluffy mashed potato come drowned with a sea of green parsley sauce. It never costs too much, there's a jar of chilli vinegar knocking about on one of the pew-like tables, and you'll certainly end up with a nice old fashioned working class warmth. Lovely Jubbly. M

Exmouth Market, London EC1