Chains tend not to flourish in Crouch End. Cafe Rouge has just quietly closed, and I've never seen more than six people in the brightly lit, yet deeply dismal Kentucky Fried Chicken. Our recent visit had all the hallmarks of a recently opened branch of a chain. Firstly, and quite understandably, there were too many staff, they didn't know what they were doing and were unfamiliar with the menu. There was a slight misunderstanding about what we'd ordered, which wouldn't have happened if the place had been open for a few weeks. Our lunch was fine (or should I say Fyne?) but unremarkable, our smoked salmon, mussells were freshly and simply prepared, which is what this company aim for. Getting out was our problem. Soon after we arrived, a party of eight came in and the staff - quite rightly - were occupied with them for some time. We tried to order coffee, but couldn't catch eyes, and the moment passed. We needed to leave. The three or four staff ran about, ducking behind the bar for this and that. L called out, quite loudly, but they carried on dashing about as if they were deaf. The table of eight included several aussies, who tried to help. When L stood up waving his arms and announced loudly that he would like the bill now please, the only people in the place who remained unaware of it were the staff. Finally, when they'd stopped laughing, one of the aussies pointed out to one of the staff that there was a bloke over there wanting to pay his bill, and we were able to pay and escape. OK. 2001 DM

www.loch-fyne.com

2 Park Road Crouch End London N8 8TD

Tel:- 020 8342 7740 Fax:- 020 8342 7741