It seems to be the consensus that there are five centres of real curry excellence in the UK - Southall, Manchester, Birmingham, Glasgow and of course, Brick Lane. I had not been to Brick Lane for a long time and was amazed at the change. It is now more like Disneyland than the East End and is clearly increasingly aimed at the tourist market. There are a lot of restaurants, many with very good write-ups in their windows and keen hustlers trying to entice the punter inside. A far cry from the average High St. We had no idea which to try so went to the one that was nearest to us when our curry-hunger could be put off no longer - which is as good a way of choosing as any. It was Preem - and it was very good - but I don't think a bad curry house would last long on Brick Lane, somehow.

Preem is quite large and unpretentious with a cafe like atmosphere. There are some wonderful murals on the walls including an interestingly clad lady doing impressions of 'that scene' in 'When Harry Met Sally', lying voluptuously in a large clam shell the while. The food was excellent - my friend had a prawn korma which she pronounced exquisite and I had dahl soup, lamb madras, rice and a plain naan all of which were among the best I have ever had. We also had a side order of ladyfingers which definitely WAS the best I have ever had. They just had a freshness and lack of sludginess which I had not encountered before. And it was fairy cheap as well, with faultless service. I certainly couldn't recommend a visit to Brick Lane enough. Many of the restaurants stay open late and there is more entertainment after your meal if you need to go home by taxi. A steady stream of minicabs work Brick Lane, almost like a production line, and if you like that kind of thing you can bargain your way to the best deal. I do, and offers to the same destination ranged from £35 to £17. Beats televison any day. Harry