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Sticky Fingers
1a Phillimore Gardens London W8 7QB Tel:020 79385338

This won Spy's Best Burger award so I thought I'd go to see what its other offerings were like. At first alarm bells were ringing - it looked like another 'themed' burger rip-off joint - but happily this proved not to be the case. It is owned by Bill Wyman, the ex-bassist of the Rolling Stones and the Stones theme predominates - in spades. So if you don't like them, I wouldn't go. It's a bit of a shrine. As you enter there is a bar which has a big screen next to it showing past Stones triumphs and the main eating area, which is divided into two by a few stairs is covered, as it would be, with Stones memorabilia. These include autographed guitars, gold discs and Stones posters, some going back a very long way. There are also a lot of portraits and caricatures, some very good. The decor is red, brown and gold with lots of mirrors, brass railings and neon lighting. Seats are fairly well spaced with some banquettes in the far room. My friend said it was a bit like sitting inside a juke box. And the music is, of course, wall to wall Stones - well it was when we went. It's a bit more expensive than average, but not that much. Also, beside the burger and ribs sort of stuff, it does quite a wide range of 'American' inclined meat and fish dishes but fusion dishes as well, so it's a something for everyone kind of menu.

We had prawns to start which were good and big with an interesting sauce - I think some lime was involved in it. We then had piri piri chicken (her) and steak (me). The steak was very good - there was lots of it and it was actually done as I had asked. The bearnaise sauce, in its own little pot, was excellent too. I tried a bit of piri piri - also a winner and plentiful to boot. My friend had a sour cream baked potato as well and she didn't think she'd got enough cream, so she asked for more and she instantly got it, no worries. That was nice. We were then told they had added banana split to the menu for the first time that night, so I felt duty bound to try it. It was about the size of the QE2 and I had to admit defeat, pleading my ever spreading belly, but what I could manage of it was exactly what a banana split should be. There's enough there for two, maybe three, reasonably sized punters. My only criticism of the evening, in fact, is that they subscribe to that grubby practice of charging for service and then leaving the card slip blank for you to add it again. Isn't it time that this was finally outlawed? We lingered over our wine, were the last to leave and received no dirty looks, which brings me on to the service - also excellent. The waiting staff are clearly all picked for their general grooviness and cool and fit the place well. I asked one if she minded hearing the Stones 24/7. She was from South Africa and didn't know much about them before she got the job but she said the staff actually ended up singing along. That must say more for the Stones' music than any amount of gold discs. Harry

£££

2004

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