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Coronation Restaurant
68 Hunterfield Rd Gorebridge Near Edinburgh Tel: 01875 820200

It is not often that you get to 'discover' a new dish and perhaps it was appropriate that it was in Scotland, home of David Livingstone, the great Victorian explorer, that this finally happened to me. The restaurant, which looks like it used to be a pub, is mostly done out in the 'school of Beefeater' way but is saved by a sort of large conservatory that they have added on to it - and most of the seating is in that. Tables are well spaced and service is good with plenty of staff around. On to the new dish.

You know those little pastry parcel 'golden basket' starters that are served in Thai restaurants - usually filled with pork or crab or whatever - which come with a little sauce dip? Can you imagine them filled with - haggis? Well imagine no more, for they exist! In the Coronation Restaurant. I had to have some and after the initial shock I thought they were rather good. The ultimate fusion food. Are they new? Or are they a long established Edinburgh staple? I would like to be told. I continued the haggis theme with my main course and if you do go to the Coronation I would make sure it is your only meal of the day. This is not a restaurant for the faint - hearted. This is good solid comfort food with plenty of red meat, cream and bulk. My main was steak on a bed of haggis, both soaked in a cream sauce with lots of properly cooked veg on the side. I was almost defeated by it. Almost. The steak was very, very good and there was plenty of it. The sauce was cream, Drambuie and something else. Delicious and probably now a timebomb in my arteries. The haggis was excellent haggis and there was plenty of that as well. My friend had Beuf Bourgignon and didn't like it. She said it was a bit greasy and they used the wrong kind of onions. She said I should only give the place an 'OK'. I'm going to give it an 'Approved' because I think the chef is a bit of a maverick and that should be encouraged. We had no room for the desserts - which mostly consisted of lots of ice cream with lashings of marshmallows, fudge, cream, cherries, more cream, biscuits and wafers. I would like to have been stretchered out but luckily we were staying within crawling distance. Well worth a visit, but handle with care... Harry

£££

2004

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