Although it's about 45 minutes drive out of Adelaide, this is the restaurant everyone recommends: the people we're house exchanging with; the woman at Penfold's Winery said it was her favourite; it gets a glowing write up in "Dine - eating out in South Australia". Since most of our meals in and around Adelaide have been excellent, and since they were fully booked the first time we tried, we were really looking forward and were prepared to be impressed. Recently re-opened after refurbishment, it's simple and pretty, perched on the edge of a cliff overlooking Gulf St Vincent.

We usually prefer to drink local wine, but they had neither of the $45 SA chardonnays we tried to order, then brought us a more expensive one, from Victoria, and were vague about the price. They asked if we wanted bread and olives - which many places provide free - that was $7 (2.50). L's brandade starter was excellent, but I'd ordered scallops, and for $15 (5.50) I got 4, which worked out at almost $4 (1.50) each. They were OK. L had battered garfish and chips, which were fresh and crisp, but no better than something very similar I had elsewhere for half the price. My risotto had obviously been kept waiting for it, as it was tepid and olive oil had settled in a wide pool around it. It tasted of what it was: boiled rice with olive oil. It hadn't been cooked in stock, there was no parmesan cheese, just this great pool of green olive oil. I added salt but then it tasted like salty boiled rice. I only ate 3 mouthfuls. Look, they couldn't make me eat cold rice pudding when I was nine and if anything my spirit has hardened over the years. I sat there for over half an hour, long after L finished his fish. Eventually they came to clear and asked me why I'd not finished, I replied that I didn't like it. They were very apologetic, asked me how I'd have improved it (cook the rice in stock, add parmesan, much less olive oil, serve hot) I replied. I could also have added that onion would have been better very slightly browned in the oil, before adding the rice, not sliced raw artistically on top. The fresh basil too, should have been in there flavouring the rice, not drooped weary and raw over the onion. They offered a free dessert or glass of sticky and I accepted the latter. With an espresso for L, the bill came to $123 (just under 45 quid) almost twice the price of most other meals we've had in Adelaide. I had something to eat when I came home.

Seems to me they have got a reputation and are making money while they're on a roll, and I don't blame them. People expect to pay more for a beautiful location. But they also expect enjoyable food. Generally we have been knocked out by the quality of food in and around Adelaide, and this has been our only disappointment. They should rename this place The John Travolta. Or The Olivia Newton John. Star of Grease. Geddit? Rejected. 2001 DM

The Esplanade Port Willunga McLaren Vale Adelaide South Australia

Tel: 8557 7420