It's a French menu and the chef is Philippe Mouchel. Or rather was, as although his name is on the menu and engraved on the wine glasses, the website revealed that he left in 2001. We had Escargot to start, followed by Steack Frites for me, and two kinds of beef – slow roasted and a beefsteak, with asparagus - for L, washed down with a Waipara Pinot. My bowl of frites was so vast that even after we’d both pigged out, half of them were left. Big fat frites, too, fresh and hot; incredibly tender beef; charming service; nice cold water; nice hot bread; sunshine on the water; children playing in the fountain…

I kid you not, it was perfect. No room for dessert after all those frites. The bill with an espresso came to A$130 (about 52 quid), which considering the quality and quantity was extremely good value, and later we understood why.

While walking this lot off, we went round the back of the building. The gambling industry offers subsidised, or even free food to citizens who spend their days and dollars with them, and The Brasserie is owned by Crown Ltd. That’s Crown Casinos, and the back of the building is another story. A dark and cavernous interior, all flashing neon and loud music, hundreds of fruit machines, roulette tables, and other gambly stuff. We’ve never tried this, so strode forward, ready to lose a few dollars in the name of experience, but a uniformed woman wanted to search our bags, and suddenly it seemed like the waste of a sunny afternoon and we didn’t bother. Recommended DM October 2005