We ate here twice, first dinner: red peppers roasted, skinned and stuffed with tuna, hearts of romaine with anchovy and garlic, aubergine cut like chips, then battered and deep fried, some small fried fish, glass of fino for me, amontillado for L, then a bottle of red. Best meal since we arrived in Andalucia, everything cooked fresh and exactly as described on the menu, yet kind of unexpected and wonderful as well. They advertise "More than 40 tapas; more than 60 wines" which is a challenge really, isn't it ? We were due to leave the next day and we'd hardly started! We shared a pastry and lemon dessert (Pastel Cordobes) and reflected that if Ryanair started flying to Còrdoba, and outsiders started buying second homes, so that the natives were no longer able to afford to live here, this place would be famed throughout the Land of Gastronomy. As it is, you can get a table any time.

Next morning our train was cancelled and there was no bus till 3.30pm. Tragedy! Brushing away the tears, we put our luggage in a locker and headed back into Cordoba for lunch - now, where to go ? It was a tough decision, but we returned to Bodegas Mezquita and lunch was even better than dinner had been. This time we had Venison in Almond sauce, which was a rich gravy with wine and nuts. This was really assured cooking, and there was quite an undignified scramble to get the very last bit of sauce. Aubergines fried again, but discs this time, in a piquant sauce, and green peppers stuffed with oxtail - luscious - my favourite. Dessert was what my Mum used to call "eggy bread" scattered with sugar and cinnamon. And then there's the shop (Tienda Gourmet) with confectionery, cheeses, tapanades, olives and dozens of different olive oils (this is the olive oil capital of Spain). where you can wander round while waiting for the food to arrive.

I've jut looked at their website and discovered that they only opened last year. Somehow, with cooking this confident and experienced, I expected it to have been around for years. If you ever get to Còrdoba, this is the place. Approved. February 05 DM