I have a confession: I have never really been a fan of New York. I know, shock, horror; people who have been only once shriek and cry they would live there ‘in a New York Second’. But, I’m sorry, it’s like oysters – I know that you are meant to love them but really there is something faintly disturbing about them, and I feel the same about New York. But, unlike oysters, I keep going back and trying New York and I keep finding restaurants that in among the noise and smoke (and bad eateries) are truly wonderful.

This time it was Eleven Madison, which is at, well, 11 Madison. Firstly the room, it is bright, open and airy, décor is shades of brown and it has huge ceilings, which surprisingly swallow up much of the sound. Then there are the waiters. They actually seem to like what they do. I know it’s strange and for a while I was at a loss, they spoke with authority about the menu and didn’t try and push the most expensive items. Then there is the sommelier. He doesn’t look down his nose at the customer (clearly didn’t read page one line one of the sommelier hand book ‘make the bastards feel small’). He will bring tasters, and recommends within the price range you give him. How unusual! His suggested Pinot Noir perfectly matched my lamb and my partner’s fish. Actually, he suggested something else at first, but then more quietly told us he was only doing that because the vintner was sitting at the next table and then subtly pointed out the Pinot which was cheaper and he thought much better. I started with the crispy escargot ravioli then dived into the pine nut crusted loin of lamb, which inside at least was soft, succulent and nicely pink. The other half had a salad, which I would call boring but my interest was livened by the champagne vinaigrette, then he had the seared artic char with a black truffle vinaigrette – yes I know he was avoiding meat and had a crazy thing about vinaigrette at the time. They gave us the desert wine, clearly recognising that I love nothing better than a freebie, but while they didn’t serve cheese (where in the US does?) they told us the shop in New York where we could buy the best stuff if we wanted. All in all a first rate meal. The downside, there is always one, was that I recommended it to my friends who had the tasting menu and wine accompaniment, and being international foodies themselves declared that their dinner was one of the best they had ever eaten. Now I have to go back again to taste the chefs menu, which means another trip to New York. I still hate oysters. Fellow Traveller