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Lindsay House, 21 Romilly Street, London, W1D 5AF

Lindsay House, 21 Romilly Street, London, W1D 5AF

Lindsay House, 21 Romilly Street, London, W1D 5AF

020 7439 0450

I have wanted to go to Corrigan's Lindsay House since it opened, and wonder whether I shouldn't have gone sooner.
First, Lindsay House is a beautiful, Georgian building in central London. You ring the bell to get in, but the welcome is far from warm and a little indifferent. The rooms are on the small side which means the tables are close together, but the décor of muted browns and modernish art help them to be attractive, well lit and nicely presented.

Its fixed price menu (£56 for three courses or £68 for the tasting menu) is broad and inviting, and heavy on the meat and internal organs side. There is the occasional nod to a piece of fish, but only one or two. The cured and roasted Foie Gras terrine was delightful, although the promised spiced ginger bread and country toast appeared to be just country toast, by which I mean white bread toasted. For mains, I went for the stuffed pigs trotters with morels and sweetbreads served with creamed celeriac & choucroute; although there was no sign of the creamed celeriac. The trotter dish is becoming something of a signature now it has been on the BBC food programme, and it was beautifully made, if the accompanying vegetables were a little over salted. It was the puddings that sparkled, and if you go then you must save room for the chocolate cherry pudding and ice cream.

What of it all? Did I expect too much? Should I have reined in the anticipation? I don’t like knocking restaurants or Chefs that really try with their food (especially when the Chef cooks for the Queen); but I do like to be honest, and sometimes faint praise can be damming in itself. It was good, it just, well, just wasn't fantastic, which doesn't make it bad just not thrilling. The place is nice, service good, wine list alright (but the wine waiter didn't know the difference between a Tuscan and super Tuscan wine). Yes, I am glad I went. Would I go back? No, I don't think that I would - not because it was bad, but because it is something I have tried and there are so many great restaurants and so few dinners out there, that it would be wrong to go back somewhere which didn’t blow me away.


www.lindsayhouse.co.uk