This place is a real find. Smack in the middle of one of the poshest parts of Kensington it is charming, unpretentious and most important, reasonably priced. Even the lobsters. Only open a few weeks it is a fairly small fish restaurant and is designed to look like a Meditarranean seaside cafe. There is a sea mural on one wall and the others feature fishing nets, some containing some rather surprised fish. A marlin (I think it's a marlin) is suspended from the ceiling, over a brass rail. Tables and chairs are wooden, the tables with gingham covers. There is a bar/food preparation area at the back.

The food was excellent. I went for whitebait and got a huge mound of them and she had oysters, beautifully presented on a bed of ice. These were both accompanied by warm bread, straight out of the oven. I then had cod and rice (all fish come with a choice of chips, rice or salad) again elegantly presented on a black metal dish. Usually when something is elegantly presented the word 'small' has to appear somewhere nearby. Not here. Portions were generous and there were many sauces (including a very hot chilli one). My cod was excellent and the rice matched it perfectly. She had fried squid with rice and loved it. More bread appeared. I don't know what the desserts were because we did not have room for them but I bet they were nice.

They told me the idea was to take the fish and chip concept and run with it a bit - to show that there was more that you could do with fish than just steep it in batter and drown it in vinegar. But at the same time to keep the low price, comfortable and friendly, fish and chip 'ethos'. That's not word for word what they said but I think it's what they meant. Anyway, boy have they succeeded. The meal above, together with a bottle of white house wine which was very good, came to just £36. In Kensington. Near Boujis, the nightclub the 'young Royals' keep falling out of. Don't worry. It is a genuinely nice place and wonderfully Sloane - free. I just hope it doesn't change. Or will the standards drop and the prices rise in the usual way? I really don't think they will, here - but go now to be on the safe side.