A stalwart of local dining, this charming 17th century pub has seen some recent changes, not just with the owners but the menu also. With vast views over the fields of Suffolk, The Buxhall Crown is well known in the local area for hearty pub grub alongside more contemporary British cooking. It boasts of seasonal cooking from local produce, a point which new owner Wayne Felgate was quick to mention on our arrival. "We've bought four lambs this week - I can see them from my window. I haven't the heart to name them. Besides, I've got dibs on one of the racks!" he says. At least the lamb is more local than the beef, which is sourced from Scotland...Still, mustn't grumble...

The interior, like the menu, is comforting and homely - even the refurbished right hand seating area is cosy, despite the airy colour scheme, thanks to the aged tables and chairs. Our hosts are quick to make us feel comfortable.

Starters consumed today provided a good start to what appeared to be a much-contemporised menu from the kitchen. Grilled salmon and buttered samphire tempted, but the majority of the party opted for Seared Scallops on watercress salad, with sweet chilli and sour cream. Scallops were cooked perfectly, along with their coral, and the elements of the dish worked well together. Perhaps too much sour cream. Asparagus on poached egg was good, but tough asparagus was noted. Finally, a beef carpaccio was said to be of good quality, but under seasoned.

Mains were equally of mixed success. The parma-wrapped rabbit and rabbit liver with fondant potato and red wine and thyme jus disappointed. The jus was far too weak in flavour, the liver entirely missing and rabbit leg far too tough to be enjoyed - perhaps slow cooking the leg would have benefitted the dish, as would the inclusion of the liver. The wrapped saddle was tasty, however.
Spring roll with sesame noodles was adequate, but lacked flavour. The noodles were treated to a slick of sesame oil, which was unpleasant.
Stars of the show were the Moroccan Lamb shank with sweet potato mash (although it's pretty hard to get lamb shank wrong) and the beef and tomato pie, with its unctious filling and generous portion.

Dessert was far more triumphant - the famous Malva pudding (a steamed pudding steeped in a toffee sauce) was as good as always. Lemon tart with mango sorbet and thyme syrup was superb; the main elements unexpectedly complemented each other and with the subtle back up of the thyme syrup, the dish was a winner.

Service is friendly and thoughtful, despite a few oversights, but this will tighten up over time.

Also, the wine list is limited - of a reasonable quality, but some further choice is seriously needed. The shiraz, fleurie and sauvignon blanc we had were, however, pleasant examples.

There is plenty of potential here for the kitchen to shine, should they refine their cooking - the ideas coming out are excellent, but technique is lacking. This, plus a gentle nudge to the owner for an extended wine list, and this will be a fine dining haunt to frequent.

£35 per head approx, including a bottle of wine.