We went here towards the end of Malaysia Week 08, which the Satay House had contributed to, and they were rushed off their feet. The place was completely full when we went, so it was lucky we had reserved a table. Satay House is a bit of a Malaysian institution. It is very much a family business, now run by a brother and sister whose parents started it about 35 years ago. A lot of the people eating there were Malaysians and this, as we all know, is a very good sign!

The restaurant has quite a small upstairs and a slightly larger downstairs, which is where we went, decorated in grey and avocado. Large tear drop lights set it all off but what makes it really different is that downstairs there is a large TV screen set into the wall. This was showing quite a varied range of material, ranging from what looked like someone's wedding, to I think excerpts from The Seven Samurai, complete with subtitles, to a particularly fascinating Sumo wrestling contest. We were told that Malaysian food is drawn from a base of Indian, Chinese and Thai dishes with many special additions, accents, and elaborations. It is essentially quite a light cuisine, and spicy but not in an overpowering way.

So, what to have? As we were in the Satay House we decided to have the satay, she lamb and me chicken (£6.10), and the Sumo wrestler on the screen above our heads grunted in agreement. What to follow? The Sumo wrinkled his brow along with us and willed us to decide. I went for Rendang Daging, a traditionl slow cooked beef (£8.10), she went for Sotong Berempah, stir fried squid in peppers and spices (£6.20) and after more grunting the Sumo went for his opponent, so I guess he approved.

We accompanied these with rice and aubergine with chillies and shrimp (£5.40) and it was all excellent - many fascinating flavours with plenty of bite but subtle as well. I had Tiger beer and she had white wine which she pronouced first rate. Altogether, an excellent and rather different experience.