What can we say about Rick Stein? It’s hard to deny that he is a defender of fantastic British food, local farm producers, and a visionary fish chef. But one can’t help wondering also if he hasn’t become a very rich bloke who is taking more interest in his TV career than the quality of his establishments. The Stein empire in the small town of Padstow is extensive and includes the Seafood Restaurant, a café, a deli, a gift shop, two Bed and Breakfast businesses, as well as St Petroc’s Hotel which also has a restaurant. St Petrocs is supposed to be more relaxed than the Seafood Restaurant, offering a smaller bistro style menu, at a more affordable price. We called for a reservation the day before we wanted to eat and, even though we were out of season (November), already it was fully booked, but they said as there was only 3 of us, they could squeeze us in at 10pm. So be warned, due to the success of Rick’s TV shows and books, the restaurant and bistro are always busy and any bookings need to be made well in advance.

When we arrived, things got off to a bad start. There was nobody at reception and somebody only appeared to answer the phone, and then we had to wait while she apparently held a conversation with someone from the main restaurant concerning the staff rota! We were shown to our table, which was designed for 6-7 people and was in the middle of the room. We would only occupy half of it as there were only three of us, and smaller tables were free. I asked to be re-seated to a table for four in the corner and got the distinct impression that it was a hassle for the waiter. The noise in the dining room was also very loud. The sound of chat reverberating within the single dining room with nothing cushioning it or allowing it to escape created quite a din. We were all given menus within moments of being seated. To our surprise it was not dominated by fish dishes. Within five minutes or so, the waiter was back to take our order, hardly giving us a chance to consider all of the options. The three of us plumped for steak and frites. A safe choice which although not adventurous we really shouldn’t have been able to fail with. The three steaks were ordered (one rare, one medium rare and one medium) as well as a bottle of reasonably priced red wine. Within a few moments the waiter returned with the three dishes and the wine (wow that’s service!) and proceeded to disperse the steaks to each of us. All three steaks were cooked medium, some may disagree, but my definition of a rare steak is red inside and bloody, not grey-brown! By now we were getting less and less happy. Eating out for us is not a rare treat and we know what good standards are. I can be patient and I also can be very understanding, but given that very recently I saw Rick on TV moaning about the lack of ability at pubs etc to cook a basic steak, I am rather reasonably pissed off when one of his own eateries evidently can not do what he, and I, think should be basic cooking! After finishing, the plates were whipped away and desert menus placed in front of us. The options where frankly un-exciting, involving the usual sticky toffee pudding, chocolate tart, etc and only one cheese. We all turned down the dessert option and my two comrades decided on a large espresso each. The waitress returned with a latte and an espresso. I suppose 1 out of 2 is not too bad, as coffee orders can be very complicated. In fairness she did replace the latte but this was a further wait. We had felt rushed all through the meal, and as though we were unwelcome. I imagine readers could be thinking, hold on, they squeezed you in and it was very late – but if you are not prepared to give the level of service similar to that at 8pm, then you should not take the reservation. Amazingly it took us an age to get someone to bring us our bill. In fact my partner had to go out to the reception desk in the entrance hall and request service. While waiting there she saw that a clear view could be had to the kitchen had the hall not been blocked by a large blue wheelie bin. The bill came in just over £100, which is a bit high for three average steaks and a bottle of plonk. On our way out we used the toilets. Nice Molton Brown products but otherwise they were a bloody mess!!! There’s no denying that PadSTEIN is a lovely place. The power of television and Mr Stein’s clever business brain have enabled him to add many strings to his bow. He has certainly been good for the local economy. But given how focussed on the success of Stein the towns economy has become he has a responsibility not to take success for granted. Part of his TV success has been his firm stand for good quality. We found that to be very lacking at St Petrocs. Don’t get me wrong, I like Rick Stein a lot. We love his rants and raves against bad food and lousy service. Maybe he needs to learn from the mistakes of his guru Floyd and watch far more closely the management of his food empire, or else the lovely shiny TV career maybe tainted with hypocrisy. We don’t think he’d want that. Dickie Davis and Shirley Crabtree