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Hoffy's, Lange Kievitstraat 52 2018 Antwerpen, Belgium
Lange Kievitstraat 52 2018 Antwerpen 03 234.35.35 In the heart of the old diamond district, where there are more frummers per square yard than even Stamford Hill, we were the only customers in modern dress, and I was the only female. The food is all cooked on the premises and (obviously) all kosher. You make a selection from an impressive array at the counter, Hoffy piles your plate high, heats it up and brings it to you. Meanwhile, you sit down and tuck into hrine (horseradish and beetroot dip) and harissa (chili, tomato. sour cream dip) new green pickles and brown bread. I started off in control: chose the salmon baked with honey and almonds, Hoffy said one piece wasn't enough, but I said it was, and chose the baked endive ang the green beans. Then he told me I had to have the ratatouile, so I did and said that was enough. "No, you want some of the broccoli terrine, then you have enough" We had no idea how much we were spending, but for kosher food they normally charge like a wounded bull, so we were braced to extend the mortgage. L had sepphardi chicken, beef meatloaf, some mixed vegetables and mushrooms. Hoffy brought us our plates, asked where we were from, turns out he has three children in London. Although we knew the answer, we asked him whereabouts, and of course they are all in Stamford Hill. He also has a son in New Jersey, but life is hard there "I'm not sending any more children to America" says Hoffy. But why send them anywhere ? Antwerp is dead, he says, the diamond business has all gone to Dubai. So Hoffy and his two brothers plan to sell up, come to London and open a restaurant. Whereabouts ? Need you ask ? A boy of about seven sat alone at a table slowly working his way through a vast bowl of chicken soup. Like all local boys he had a shaved head, sidelocks, capel, black coat and stockings, white shirt. Men in big black hats, long coats and black stockings, ate alone or in groups, while Hoffy held court in the centre of the room, when he wasn't serving, all conversation except with us, was in Yiddish. Despite being outsiders, we didn't feel in the least uncomfortable, indeed, we felt very welcome. The food was really very good, there was nothing at all restauranty about it, more like the best home cooking. We also had half a bottle of Israeli cabernet. Asked for a bill, Hoffy waggled his head and said €50. No idea how this was calculated, but it was value for money and we left happy. |
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