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Recently Jean-Christophe Novelli’s new ‘gastro-pub’ opened at the White Horse in Harpenden to great acclaim! Although excited, we waited for the first furore and the ‘booked-up-ness’ to die down somewhat before venturing for an early evening meal on the terrace. Although the terrace setting was divine and the menu printed on a block of solid wood, the choices were disappointingly limited. My wife chose a grilled rib-eye steak for the main course and I chose the king prawns. Both dishes arrived in good time but again were disappointing. The fried prawns appeared to have been thrown on the plate with no garnish and not even lemon for an accompaniment. My wife took a taste of her large lump of rib-eye, grimaced and whispered in my ear, “It tastes of liver, darling!” I tasted it and agreed, revolting. “Send it back! You’re paying good money for this!” Mortified, she hates making a fuss, she summoned the waiter. Trying not to let the other diners hear, she whispered the problem again. The delightful waiter completely understood her embarrassment and rushed off to get another steak. He returned with news from the chef, the interesting flavour of the steak was due to an extra long ‘hanging’ period – 42 days! I nearly fell off my chair, crikey, the steak would be walking out of the fridge if hung for that long, and what about the strong liver taste?! Anyway another steak arrived, still somewhat ‘livery’, but she soldiered on, ate the lot, but still rather embarrassed. In spite of the disappointing nature of the food, perhaps it was an off-day, the waiting staff were absolutely charming and couldn’t have been more helpful. If there is a touch of anything at Novelli’s new gastro-pub, it’s a touch of class on the part of the waiters!
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A Touch of Novelli, The White Horse, Hatching Green, Harpenden,
Hi
I would like to share with you my experience when myself and a friend dined at the White Hart recently.
We were warmly welcomed and found the atmosphere to be very pleasant and helpful.
I ordered the coq au vin. The chicken was excellent and perfectly cooked together with the onions etc. However I found that the sauce was too salty. It overwhelmed what was a very nice sauce.
My companion ordered the Rib of beef. It was gristly and a little tough. Quite a few of the chips were burnt. Fortunately she likes chips overdone. I pointed out politely to the waiter that it should not have left the kitchen with clearly overcooked food. He did not apologise but said I will tell the kitchen about it..
We both then had the honeycomb parfait which was excellent. Although the chocolate madelaines were a bit of a non-entity and in our opinion did not add anything to the dish.
Finally we went in to the bar to have our coffee which was very nice. We sat in the window seat to catch the beautiful sun. Then we had a problem with the table. Every time you put your arm on the table it rocked slopping the drinks. When the bar steward or waiter came over to enquire if everything was OK I mentioned again very politely the problem with the table his comment was oh and he went off. If this had happened in other places they would have said either I am sorry but it is being looked at or I will get something to put under the table to stabilise it.
Our conversation on the drive home was that on balance we would not visit them again but go to our usual restaurants (Redcoats in Hitchin and the Paris House in Woburn)
A Touch of Novelli
Having read your review of Novelli's I had to write and tell you of our experience.
We booked a table for 9 persons and all agreed the food was good, our waitors and waitresses were very polite and helpful, however. The flaw to Novelli's came in the form of Mr Frederic Sol the manager. We all retired to the lounge area downstairs to await our substantial bill and to have a last drink. The table was messy and wet from peoples glasses and I politely, very politely ask Mr Sol if the table could be wiped down, he exploded at me that he was I quote" fed up of people telling him what to do", as you can imagine we were somewhat gob smacked. I replied " I guess that is what customers are here for" and he whisked his cloth and himself away.
I did send a letter of complaint but the response was one of we have enough bookings for average food from wealthy local people who like to be seen at Mr Novelli's restaurant to care about your comments.
We did go back to try again but had a very mediocre meal. We do go for a drink there in the summer and we sit outside because it is convenient, but there are far better restaurants in Harpenden and the surrounding are for us to rush back to ' A Touch of Novelli's'.
I think Mr Sol should prefix his name with the initials Ar, much more appropriate. SD