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Mon Plaisir, 21 Monmouth St, Covent Garden, London WC2H 9DD

Mon Plaisir, 21 Monmouth St, Covent Garden, London WC2H 9DD

21 Monmouth St, Covent Garden, London WC2H 9DD

020 7836 7243

Mon Plaisir is not what you expect - at least it wasn't what I expected. It is the oldest French restaurant in London and the outside would be happy on a stage set, with a huge tricolour draped above the pavement. Inside I expected to find a brasserie with the usual polish and mirrors and that was there all right, but there was a lot more to it as well. There are several different dining rooms each with their own individual style - one is very art deco, another the aforementioned brasserie, another is like a mini art gallery and the one we went to resembled a little country auberge up in the attic with lots of brickwork, white wood, books, curiosites and a collection of antique coffee machines. There is a splendid lead topped bar on the ground floor, which they prised from a brothel in Lyons, backed with a huge mirror and there is a real Michelin Man sitting by the stairs. It is all, as you would expect, very French - French owned and they use French staff 'as much as they can'. They often pop over to France and bring back plenty of Gallic swag so they can get exactly what they want, especially in the wine department - and they have an impressive list.

If you can make French onion soup properly, the theory goes, you can make anything. They make it properly here. It was truly excellent, deep and punchy with a mattress of cheese on top. I followed with a very good (and large) Steak Tartare, also easy to get wrong, which came with thin chips - and I had a rather clever little salad with that. She had a starter which involved lobster soup, asparagus and foie gras. She said the pate, which they make on the premises, was superb. I had some and she was right. Then she went for some duck and again it was a generous offering and again it was an excellent one. We had a house wine which cost about £12 and was good, but then you'd expect it to be. Service is young, bouncy, friendly and efficient. So - what of the cost? If you go a la carte it ain't cheap. Starters were around £8. The steak was £16.95 and the duck £16.50 and vegetables are extra (the chips weren't). Other attractions include Coq au Vin, Roast Rump of Lamb and Shank of Pork Confit at the same sort of prices but - and it's a big but - they do have some special deals.

They have a pre and post theatre menu - three courses for £14.50 which has to be a bargain and on the second Monday of every month they have a special regional dish evening with an accordianist thrown in. So who to bring here? Anyone really. It's good for groups but you can bring that special person too. Near to us one couple were having a marvellous time. He was English, she seemed to love the place and she was French (always a good sign!).

Mon Plaisir has a real individuality and is an excellent antidote to bland modern chains - I just wish there were more like it.


www.monplaisir.co.uk
By Harry at 22/09/2006 - 13:26 | 2006 | Ambience | Approved | Central/West End | French | London | Review | ££££/$$$$ | add new comment | 513 reads