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Tom Aikens, 43 Elystan St London SW3 3NT


43 Elystan St London SW3 3NT

020 758 42003

Tom Aikens is superb. It is easy when writing about somewhere you like to use words like that but in Tom Aikens' case it is true. We went for lunch. The exterior is discreet. Inside the restaurant consists of one average sized room with wooden floors and the decor predominantly black and white. Tables are well and thoughtfully spaced. The windows are half covered in raffia blinds. Tall mirrors line one wall and five abstract pictures hang near the entrance. At first this might sound a little austere but the purpose soon becomes clear. This restaurant has been very cleverly thought out and everything concentrates the mind on the food. Which is dazzling.

Each dish is carefully explained to you by a waiter when it is served. We began with an amuse-bouche of fish and cucumber and straight away it is very clear that Aikens is a master of the combination of flavours. For starter we had a dish of mushrooms and wood pigeon. However I describe it this is going to sound pretentious, so I am just going to go for it; when the plate arrived it was like a mini firework display - both visually - a mixture of small mushrooms, pieces of pigeon breast, mousses and greenery beautifully arranged, and in flavour - each item a little pocket of individuality. By now the Aikens charm is beginning to work. It genuinely is a combinaton of sensual delights - visual, taste and texture. A lot of places try to do this and fail. Here it actually works. My main was piglet with, among others, baby squid. Again a visual delight - everything a variation on pink and brown and a combination of flavours that had been expertly thought through. There is a powerful culinary and visual imagination at work here. My friend had turbot, which again looked and tasted wonderful. She finished with some figs which looked like jewels, with raisin ice cream and what looked like miniature doughnuts. I had cheese. I would come again just for the cheese. An oustanding selection and a waiter who really knew his stuff. Service was predictably first rate. There were other excellent touches - a selection of unusual breads, petits fours to finish etc.

However, for me the most interesting thing was the atmosphere. Unlike some top range restaurants this was informal and convivial. People from different tables were actually talking together, often commenting on the excellence and imagination of the food. Or maybe we just got lucky on the day. But it works. It all works. And the price? For lunch, £30. For what you get and experience that must be one of the best bargains in London.
Harry


www.tomaikens.co.uk