This is one of those new Indian restaurants that has left the flock wallpaper behind and is moving on into designer territory. It is poshly situated, not that far from the late Princess Diana's stamping grounds, but is not at all poshly priced. The room is of medium size and one wall is decorated with Rothko-style paintings. No sign of tinplate Taj Mahals or golden elephants here.The walls are painted in warm earth colours. The menu again is abandoning the old favourites and waving new concepts under the curious nose. I'm afraid I have to hold my hand up to being one of those punters who likes to sit under the maroon flock wallpaper and have the occasional soul-scouring vindaloo, because I think it's good for the system to be thoroughly napalmed now and again and a good (preferably Brick Lane or Birmingham) vindaloo is usually just the right weapon for this - especially when fired after a few pints.

So when I read in the menu that the vindaloo here was a different concept I was intrigued. I have heard that gut ripping curries were only ever invented for the stupid English anyway and this one claimed to be a more authentic version in which you could actually taste the ingredients. This was a bit of a new concept for me but I thought I'd go along with it and asked for a chicken one. Starters were a mixture of meat and veg nibbles which were all excellent but went almost unnoticed as I prepared myself for this new concept in vindaloos. When it turned up it looked just like the traditional one - like a group of wallowing hippopotami lurking in a muddy brown river among some dead fever trees - but they were right. Toning down the raw heat does let you taste things like the potatoes and you could experience the spices in the chicken too. And it was a revelation. I liked it very much and will return. Service was good and intelligent. However, I hope all the Indian restaurants don't start doing this kind of thing. We need flock. We need banquette seating. We need vindaloos that hurt. Harry