Nani's, 8-10 Wigmore Street, London W1H 9DA


8-10 Wigmore Street, London W1H 9DA

020 7580 7936

Slipped out of John Lewis by the Cavendish St exit and into Wigmore St today and found this gem. It's been there for 25 years, one of those long established, cheerful and reasonably priced restaurants run by generations of Italian families in London. These places are having to either adapt or die. Alfredo's in Essex Rd (est 1920) refused to adapt and we loved them for it. Until the end of 1999 you could still get excellent egg and chips for £1.85, cooked by the proprietor in exactly the same way as his father Alfredo did it. A mug of tea was 25p and neither the premises nor the menu had changed since the early fifties. If you never made it to Alfredo's, you're too late, they have sold up and retired. Nani's have adapted instead. Recently completely refurbished in an unpretentious modern style, they offer the usual list of modern coffee choices -cappuccino, espresso et al plus a good selection of breakfasts and lunches for around a fiver.

I had a Vegetable Melt (aubergine, roasted peppers, mozzarella, basil in toasted Italian bread), L had a Seafood Melt (smoked salmon, prawns, cheese) in chunky white bread. A pile of fresh, cold vegetable salad on the side. Considering we were in W1 this was a bargain - a huge and delicious plateful for £4.90 each. Although we loved Alfredo's, the truth is people these days know they can't eat fried food too often, however delicious it is. Nani's have embraced the 21st century, all power to them. Daisy Middleton