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Ognisko Polish Club and Restaurant, 55 Exhibition Rd Kensington London SW7 2PN


55 Exhibition Rd Kensington London SW7 2PN

020 7589 4635

don't think Ognisko's has much passing trade, because if you didn't know it was there you would walk right past it. The imposing entrance looks like the portico of an East European embassy, which it almost is. It is in a building that was donated by the then Duke of Kent to the Polish resistance during the Second World War. It now houses the Polish Club whose attached restaurant, Ognisko, is open to the public. You enter the restaurant through the club-like bar, which is set about with portraits of bewhiskered Polish officers, the two being separated by a wall of plants. The restaurant is large and magnificent - all pink walls and pillars - with an impressive collection of portraits gazing down on the diners below. I thought one was Zsa Zsa Gabor but was soon put right on that - it was the wife of a famous general. The rear of the room gives on to a splendid terrace but that was shut when we went, Autumn having just arrived. The tables are well spaced with proper linen napkins, candles and flowers. The food is, not surprisingly, Polish and slightly pricier than average, but you can have a three course set dinner for £11 so I had that. The food quality was patchy. The chicken consomme was OK and the pudding - pears - were out of a tin but the main course was good. I had pork, potatoes and pickled cucumber which was plentiful and well worth the money - the pork's sauce was particularly excellent. My companions had, among others, borscht, which was the real thing and good and a very fine liver dish. The house wind (French) was very palatable too. Service was excellent, by proper Polish ladies and one of them was kind enough to tell me the history of the place, which is fascinating. So although my £11 bargain was a bit of a curate's egg, it was unusual and interesting and a good and enjoyable night out. I would certanly go back. Harry

By m at 19/01/2007 - 12:57 | 2003 | Approved | London | Other European | Review | Service | West | ££££/$$$$ | add new comment | 519 reads