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The Northwick Hotel, Waterside, Evesham, Worcestershire, WR11 1BT


Waterside, Evesham, Worcestershire, WR11 1BT

0138640322

The Northwick is a bland plastic palace corporate hotel, part of the Best Western chain. It is like an 'executive show home' on one of those 'luxury' estates, expanded to hotel proportions; everything 'comfortable' and safe without the smallest touch of individuality - except for a courtyard with a fountain in it which is very pleasant to sit in. Nothing wrong with that - an average, functional, businesslike hotel. With one difference. The food is not average and functional. It is very good.

To start I had field mushrooms with peppers, shallots and goats cheese. They were beautifully presented and were absolutely delicious, the flavours working together in a very effective way. Main course was medallion of beef in French mustard and mushroom sauce. Usually when medallions are mentioned it means 'small' but not here. This was substantial beef and again imaginatively presented and a serious flirt with the tastebuds. Good cheeseboard too. The presentation veers towards the school of nouvelle cuisine - lots of swirls and drizzles and flourishes but unlike the loathsome nouvelle the portions are of a reaonable size. Best of both worlds. In short there's a bit of an artist in the kitchen and you can sense it. He has been there for a few years I was told. You can see why they want to keep him.

While I was there something happened which you do not often witness. A corporate group who were staying there asked the head waiter and the chef to come to their table and gave them a round of applause for looking after them 'better than anywhere else we have stayed'. I don't know where else they had stayed but I was pretty impressed with that.

Prices are fairly high - my starter was £4.75 and the beef £21.50 but most mains are round the £18 mark. Service is good. The room is of average size, decorated in the house style and tables are fairly well spaced with proper linen and lots of glasses. So, who to bring here? Obviously it's a good place to stay if you like the corporate style but you don't have to be resident to have dinner. It is open in the evening only from seven thirty to nine thirty pm but it's a place that is guaranteed to be reliable. It is not strong on stmosphere and the music is muzak but you know it will work, the food will be good and they won't spill wine over you. Maybe a business dinner or a fierce in-law then. Probably don't bring a lover. Unless you are planning to move into an 'executive' show home together and you need a bit of practice. Harry

By Harry at 12/02/2007 - 20:40 | 2007 | Approved | British | Review | Service | Worcs | ££££/$$$$ | add new comment | 420 reads