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(1) I
know that this place has already been well reviewed here, but having
just eaten there I had to add my bit? I've been reading Heston Blumenthal?s
extraordinary cookery columns in the Saturday Guardian for some
time and was itching to eat in his restaurant. All I needed was
an excuse, and what better than Mrs Fat Bob's birthday?
We chose the tasting menu at 75 quid with the sommelier's recommended
wines (one for each course plus an aperitif) for another 40 quid.
Although we knew we were in for a treat nothing prepared us for
what came. Rather than the five courses we were expecting we got
fourteen. OK some of them were only a tablespoon full, but they
were all memorable and distinctive. To start the palate cleanser
was egg white with lime and green tea dropped in to liquid nitrogen
(at the table) and then eaten whole and semi frozen, followed by
oyster in passion fruit and lavender and then mustard ice cream
with red cabbage gazpacho. And we still hadn't had the first course.
There is no doubt that Mr Blumenthal is a sensualist. This was the
sexiest food we have ever eaten. The "main" course of
anjou pigeon or sea bass simply melted in the mouth, the cauliflower
puree with scallop merely dissolved on the tongue, the cauliflower
risotto was half rice pudding, half drinking chocolate. And the
final chocolate delice with space dust was the most wonderful surprise.
Other between course treats included caviar on white chocolate,
parsnip cornflakes in parsnip milk (complete with Kellog's Variety
style packaging), a red pepper lollypop and a very post modern take
on the sherbet dib-dab. The tobacco chocolate and bacon wafer with
the coffee was the icing on the cake. .
Truly an awesome gastronomic experience, everyone should go at least
once. But be warned, to eat at the Fat Duck you need a fat wallet.
Fat Bob
(2) Heston Blumenthal,
the Michelin chef and main man behind The Fat Duck, recently gave
a lecture entitled Food Feeding and ME (Masticatory Efficiency).
I don't know what that means but if you've read what he has to say
in the Observer, you might wonder what his restaurant would be like.
I did, so I went.
First up, it is pricey.
Even if you only have one, half decent bottle of wine, you'll still
be looking at a hundred pounds or more per head. The
restaurant itself is in the village of Bray, near Maidenhead and
is a comfortable environment. Lots of glass, including some of the
plates which look spectacular, not overly spacious with its low
ceiling but you don't feel cramped either. One
of the best things about going to expensive restaurants is the service
you can expect to receive. Professional waiting staff who know the
menu inside out, can tell you about every dish, make recommendations
for food or wine (the wine list is an impressive 60 pages) and tell
you about the overall style of the place; where the ingredients
come from and the like. It also helps that they make themselves
available but are never intrusive or pushy.
Then of course, there
is the food. Blimey. Some would say the concoctions on offer are
eclectic, eccentric or insane. I've wracked my brains but haven't
quite come up with a fitting description. Certainly, the majority
of items on the menu you will never have had before. Yer man Blumenthal
no doubt has his reasons, perhaps to educate or challenge the palette
of the
diners. I am totally in favour of new and exciting culinary experiences
and I have to say, he knows his stuff. As unlikely as some of the
combinations are, they do work. The best end of pork was delicious
but it came with a type of mushroom macaroni cheese in a little
pan and was probably the most "normal" dish. For dessert,
to say I had had it as much as anything, I went for the smoked bacon
and egg ice cream, pain perdu and tomato jam with caramelised morels
and sweet jellied tea. And it did taste like egg and bacon ice cream.
Very odd, not to everyone's taste I would imagine but I liked it.
Throughout the meal, you are brought a series of dishes, all of
which adhering to the same principles but sadly I didn't catch exactly
what they were apart from the foamy palette cleanser. A lovely meal
but I would probably only return if someone else was paying. Approved.
King Mob
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