Otello is in some ways the best Italian restaurant in Brighton and Hove. The service under Amir, the head waiter, is efficient and friendly and because they are Italian, they naturally treat children as if they are real people with their own views and not some annoying sub-species. For this one forgives them chatting up one’s wife in front of one. The food is uniformly good. It fulfills those important restaurant requirements: it is always very hot, it is properly described on the menu, portions are neither mingy nor too big and it’s always delicious and well cooked. They do a cassoulet of seafood which arrives in this gigantic frying pan and is absolutely delicious. Normally I just have spaghetti vongole (baby clams) which is always fantastic. The atmosphere is relaxed and it’s always busy but they’ll squeeze you in without booking if you’re lucky. It’s good at lunchtime too. Furniture and pictures are nothing to write home about but the location is bang in the centre of Hove and prices are very affordable: worth a taxi ride from Brighton. This place is dependable! PERRY STALSIS 2002

122, Church Rd Hove East Sussex BN3 2EA

Tel: 01273 729774