(1) Reliable – that’s the word that springs to mind when one visits Signor Franco in Tunbridge Wells. We’ve been many times, over the years, for that “special” meal, and every time food and service has been top notch. Ignore the insignificant doorway and the steep narrow steps lined with signed photos of stars who have presumably dined there and often appear in Panto at the Assembly Halls and carry on to the delightful conservatory style restaurant overlooking the High Street.

Signor Franco’s manages that trick of being highly professional without being stuffy, the place always has that “buzz” that the superior English establishment often misses. You get the impression that the staff, really want you to have a good time, greeting you like an old friend, sharing the odd joke, but always remaining consummately professional. No spotty 16 year olds who don’t give a damn or remember what you ordered here. This Tuesday evening Signor Franco himself was away, but the restaurant still ran like clockwork.

So what of the food? Well as usual it was pretty perfect. After aperitifs, with nibbles (what a naff word, but amuse de bouche sounds far too poncy) I had cheese stuffed mushrooms with melted gorgonzola cheese and my wife the “special” of Aubergine cooked with tomato and cheese, both were tasty and perfect. My main course was the day’s special of Tuna, very good but not quite as nice as that recently served at Wallets Court Dover, but that was really fantastic. My wife had mushroom pasta. All was washed down with only a half of Pino Grigo, in deference to Mr. Plod and the drunken driving. Two deserts and coffee, together with the usual free digestive of lemon Vodka brought the bill to £69, plus tip for two. Not the cheapest meal, but definitely one of the best to be had in Tunbridge Wells, in terms of both enjoyment, taste and value for money. Only Thackerays, and the Bistrot Du Vin compete at this level. Top Cat

(2) Intrigued by another reviewers recommendation of Signor Franco, Q opted for this charming former tea-room as the destination for my birthday surprise meal. Its a curious custom we've developed over the years - she picks one for me , I pick one for her and we never tell each other what its going to be till we're at the door of the restaurant. Generally it works, but it can be a bit risky. One year I got into a massive adolescent strop because I thought Q was taking me to the Chop House on Farringdon Road, which I'd been to a million times, only to take me to the fantastic Moro in Exmouth Market.

Since there are only about three decent restaurants in Tunbridge Wells it became clear that we were giving Thackeray's a miss (I love it but I don't think Q could face another strop) to go to Signor Franco's.

It's great to report then that Signor Franco's is indeed a resounding success. It is probably even more defiantly old school than St Agostino, it takes itself very seriously, but the charm of the building itself - with a huge glass and timber window frame - and the care and attention to detail makes this an excellent destination.

Here I should take a little time to describe the head waiter - a man so hilariously pompous, with a tension almost Fawltyesque, who you feel could burst into rage or tears at any moment - who insists on announcing the specials of the day in an unpenetrable Italian-pidgin English. I thought he was absolutely wonderful.

Our food was pretty good, the pasta superb (arrabiatta with serious chilli, meatballs sweet and herby) and a starter of carpaccio meltingly piled on top of zingy rocket. Of course, being a birthday meal we pigged out on dessert - for me a fluffy strawberry mousse - and finally, a grappa. That was an experience too, with our Italian Basil describing in detail the different tones and areas of Grappa production while pointing at what could only be described as a massive test-tube with taps for the different grappas to come out.

While the bill came to just north of £100, Signor Franco's is well worth a visit and rightly deserves its place as one of the best restaurants in town. M