Of course I can tell you that, according to their website, they specialise in Pakhtoon cuisine (sorry not a clue 'bout that), or that the owner has won a number of awards including an Egon Ronay, some stars from Michelin and AA rosettes, but here at Spy we've never much cared for all that. The Tagore is wonderful simply because they care.

Our special starter of Kebab Ke Karishma - a "selection of kebabs from the mountainous regions of the frontier provinces of Afghanistan and undivided India. This includes kebabs of minced lamb, chicken and king prawns." - was vast, angrily spicy with fall-away meat. I thought, in my orgiastic delirium, of being on the "Up the Khyber" frontier-land, barbecuing my spiced, freshly-butchered meat (living in Kent can do this to you). We kept the theme by ordering a main of Chicken Afghani Lababdar which was mild, delicately spiced and heavenly. Whole roasted baby aubergine to accompany with rice and complimentary poppadums, and, get this - even the bloody yoghurty sauce that came with it had a tight zing to it.

The Tagore is simply sensational. M