A few years ago I did all could to find a bad restaurant in Green Lanes. As a service to Spy, and with no thought for my own personal comfort, I dragged L from one unpronouncable and unfeasibly low priced establishment to another. But all in vain. We ate delicious, freshly cooked food, in simple friendly surroundings every damn time. The best we could do was an OK, and that one has long since closed down. My reviews were getting boring. You were bored, too, weren't you - just too polite to say so.

L and I have continued our Friday night tradition of trawling the Lanes for the fruit, veg, olive oil, nuts and mysterious tins of food with foreign writing - Sainsburys it ain't - then diving into yet another place we haven't tried yet. There always is one. And I haven't reviewed them because they are very similar, and they are all great. A newish trend has been towards more fish - several now specialise in fish, and one we tried a few months ago displays the raw fish in the window, invites you to select one and then barbeques it for you. But last night Bingo! everything changed.

Bingol was the most disgusting, filthy, expensive - oh, look I can't keep this up. Sorry, but it was great. Try to stay awake, OK ? L started with borlotti beans, and I had Albanian Liver. The waitress was very sweet and pretty, and luckily her English wasn't up to my pathetic "Is it made with real Albanians?" joke. Then L had chargrilled lamb ribs prepared by the young man who sits at the huge barbeque thingy in the centre of the restaurant, and I had kleftiko. This all comes with rice, potatoes, mounds of fresh salad, big basket of nice hot bread and a free glass of turkish tea afterwards. There's no way you can eat it all. We each had a glass of ayran (milk and yoghurt mixture) and it came to £18.50 - well under a tenner each. What makes Bingol stand out is probably the menu, which describes the dishes in a really helpful way, with none of that morning gathered menuspeak. And they've got loads of fish on the menu...wake up now, I've finished! RECOMMENDED Daisy Middleton 16 April 2004