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Daquise
20 Thurloe St South Kensington London SW7 2LT 020 75896117
Daquise is brilliant. It's bang in the middle of overpriced Kensington but has managed to stay inexpensive. I was told it has been there since the war and it looks as if it might have been. It is Polish and the food is excellent - a nice change from the bland fusion stuff you find everywhere else in the neigbourhood. Nothing 'seared' or 'drizzled' here. Try the smoked salmon blinis - they are excellent and only about £4. Mains are mostly around the £7 - £10 mark and they are excellent and substantial. The fish dishes are particularly good. This place is the antidote to Nouvelle Cuisine - you get well prepared food that actually tastes of something and you don't go away hungry. House wine is about £10 a bottle or you can get a carafe for £5. Above all the atmosphere is excellent. Despite the location there is a genuine 'bohemian' ambiance, the clientelle ranged from students to a group of geriatric Poles, to what I could have sworn were a couple of spies. You could believe that Checkpoint Charlie was just round the corner. Harry

££

2003

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